R S J
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R e s t a u r a n t
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RSJ Wine
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The
vineyards of the |
MAIN GRAPE
VARIETIES
Chenin Blanc (Pineau de Loire) Indigenous
variety - range from dry through demi-
sec to remarkable sweets. Great years
will live for 100 years +. Often goes through a dumb period between ages of 2
and 10 years. AOCS: Vouvray, Coteaux
du Layon, Coteaux de l'Aubance, Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, Savennieres and Jasnieres
(usually dry). Suggestions: aperitif,
fish, chicken, pork, veal, fruit desserts, blue cheese and after dinner
sipping. (sweet) Muscadet (Melon de Bourgogne) The
grape variety of Sauvignon
Blanc Fashionable
variety. Distinctive aroma - grassy,
gooseberry, cats' pee even, especially when unripe. When fully ripe tends towards grapefruit
flavours and some light exotic fruits. Names:
Menetou-Salon, Cabernet
Franc Related
to Cabernet Sauvignon but ripens earlier and is lighter and more
aromatic. Makes fruity reds, sometimes
grassy - hints of lead pencil on the nose.
Ages well, often developing gamey flavours. Cabernet-Sauvignon Well
known variety, frowned on in Gamay Fruity
reds like Anjou Gamay, Touraine
and all the upper Loire vineyards with some real blockbusters. Top= |
RECENT LOIRE
VINTAGES
A very warm and dry March, April, May
and early June led to an exceptionally early flowering with some vines
beginning to flower in the first ten days of May. Normally flowering takes
place occasionally in late May and more normally in June. Comparisons were
being made with 1893, which was an exceptionally early vintage. It looked
like many areas would be starting the harvest from mid-August. The weather then went into reverse in
July and August, which were cold and wet, despite a brief August hot spell.
This both slowed down grape ripening and brought the threat of rot. Pierre Luneau
(Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin) were badly hit by rot and were very careful and selective in their
picking – but still losing about 30% of the crop – however the nascent Luneau wines were as impeccable as ever. A burst of fine weather from mid
September into early October changed the vintage for those who had been able
to wait, in particular Chinon where many producers
didn’t start picking their reds until late September. 2011 looks to be very good for sweet
wines in Anjou, particularly the Quarts de Chaume
where the grapes looked magnificent – a mix of noble rot and passerilage. Claude Papin
picking in Chaume, where the grapes were already
coming in at 26% potential alcohol told his pickers to include golden grapes
that would be normally left to ripen later, to keep the potential alcohol
down a little and ensure that the wines did not end up too sweet. In Anjou many good producers were
waiting until the first week of October to start on their Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc to give them time to ripen fully. Christophe Daviau
picked his Cabernet Sauvignon for Rocca Nigra on 3rd
and 4th and finished picking his Chenin
on the 5th with his
Cabernet Franc, for Petra Alba, picked
the following week 2010 - A
curate’s egg Cool June but hot dry
summer, especially in western half of the valley. Fine start to vintage but
rain late September caused problems in Montlouis
and Vouvray. Attractively fruity reds – top wines
potentially very good with lower yields than 2009. Dry whites are leaner,
fresher and more precise than 2009. Some very good sweet wines in Anjou. 2009 -
Opulent whites Hot summer and fine autumn until late
October. However, eastern part of the valley badly hit by successive hail
storms, especially Menetou-Salon and parts of
Sancerre. Opulent dry whites, some lacking acidity. and
fine but quite tannic reds Sweet whites richer than 2008 but not the same
level as 2007. 2008 – Saved by Autumn Frost affected, especially in
Muscadet. Another cool summer, particularly August,
but with less rain than in 2007. Another fine autumn until late October saved
the day. Very good dry whites – a little richer than 2007 but also precise
and vivid. Attractive reds with more weight than 2007 but less opulent than
either 2009 or 2010. Light sweet wines. 2007 – A late
start A hot April gave way to
a cool and wet summer. Once again vintage saved by a fine autumn. Fine but
quite austere dry whites. Superb sweet wines – very precise with a wonderful
balance of richness and acidity. Should age magnificently. Reds on the whole
light with many best drunk young. 2006 “A question of the Vigneron” A very hot July and a decent August - but rain started falling in mid
September in the west of the region and by late September in the east. Muscadet bore the brunt of the rainy conditions and
Pierre Luneau picked his grapes quickly but in good
condition. Generally Sauvignon was
picked before or just as the rain started and is of very good quality. There
were some good Cabernet Francs and Chenin Blancs made but the input of the Vigneron
was, as always, all important. 2005 “A Great Vintage” The Loire was blessed
with perfect weather conditions throughout this year and unlike 2003 the
acidity levels were much better. As a result some wonderfully balanced wines
have been produced. The grapes were harvested in ideal conditions and the vignerons have never known such an easy time. 2004 “A fine vintage” A lovely September
resulted in the grapes in most regions being ripe and well balanced with a
good acidity. It was a prolific vintage and many of the lesser producers in
the region didn’t reduce their yields, but the good vignerons
produced some consistently lovely wines with very good concentrations. 2003 “Fabulous Summer” This year will be
remembered as one of the hottest summers on record with picking starting two
to three weeks earlier than normal in most regions. Frosts in April did
however cause some damage and yields were subsequently lower. It was by
general consensus a truly outstanding year for red wines, which have a
wonderful concentration and lovely ripe fruit. White wines generally have a
lower acidity than normal but have tremendously ripe fruit and attractive
floral characteristics. 2002 “Plenty
of attractive fruit”
The exceptionally sunny September transformed what could have been a depressing
vintage into a generally very good one. After the cool July and wet August
this was a very welcome change to recent Septembers and altered the outlook
totally. The wines of 2002 have an exceptional purity of fruit - partly due
to yields being down as much as 20% - more for Sauvignon Blanc. Good reports
have come in from all the regions from Muscadet to
Sancerre and overall the vintage was a good one. 2001 “From
one extreme to another” This year turned out to be one of decidedly mixed
fortunes. Muscadet had yet another very good
vintage, whilst Sancerre & Pouilly had a rough
time. The frosts in April reduced the size of the crop - the rains of late
September and early October ruined the hopes of a great vintage, although
most growers are fairly happy. The favourable weather in late October ensured
that the sweet wines of 2000 “Not
to be confused with the great vintage in Bordeaux” After a miserable July,
mildew reared its ugly head although the fine autumn made some amends. The
weather broke with disastrous results on the 16th October - with
continuous rain for weeks on end. Those that harvested earlier made fine
wines (as in Bordeaux) - Muscadet was good as were
Sancerre & Pouilly. The red wines in general
have good colour but not the structure for long maturation. Despite the
downpour - there are some reasonable Chenin Blancs - including some small quantities of sweet wines
picked early December! - a tribute to the nerve of intrepid growers. 1999 “It
came close - but it was not to be” As a vintage however, it sorted out the good
from the indifferent growers. A large harvest loomed during July - serious producers
cut off excess bunches. The idle and greedy did not. When the rains came in
September - those with over laden vines (and unripe grapes) suffered - the
prudent did not. Muscadet yet again avoided the
rains and made good wines. This is a year where the selection of producer
is vital - some - such as J P Chevallier in
Saumur have made exceptional wines - many have not! 1998 “A
commercial success - but not exceptional” Late September rains
dashed the hopes of growers for another classic. Nevertheless the best vignerons, as usual, made fine wines - albeit lacking the
structure of previous vintages. Most of the rains occurred after the grapes
had reached a phenolic maturity ensuring the
dilution was not exaggerated. In general, one for current drinking. 1997 “A great success”- Huge, fat & rich
wines were made in Anjou & Touraine. Many with amazing alcoholic degrees
- 15% was not unusual for dry whites in Anjou - even Gamay
could be found with similar percentages. Some would argue that these wines
are unbalanced - others would demur with delight. This all stems from the
balmy weather of September and early October, which resulted in high,
natural, sugar levels. Have they got the acidity and balance to be long
lived? Ask some concerned experts. “Who cares?” say aficionados. 1996 “Overall, ‘96 is
probably superior to ’95” Especially for reds. A very dry summer produced the second
of a trio of good to excellent vintages. For anyone looking to lay down some
red wine - this is definitely the vintage to choose - many put it just below
1989. Dry whites, from Muscadet to Sancerre, are
also very successful. Fine weather in September and October allowed growers
to leave their Chenin until it was properly mature.
Because of the drought, the sweet wines have less botrytis. Nevertheless rich
and concentrated wines were made. 1995 “The best vintage
since 1990”
For once, frost was not so devastating, though Muscadet,
parts of Anjou and Saumur together with Bourgueil,
experienced isolated problems. A hot summer was followed by some September
rains but, except in Vouvray and Montlouis, not enough to mar the harvest. Dry whites are
successful from Muscadet to Sancerre. The reds have
concentration and charm and a long dry autumn produced some very fine sweet
wines. The wines have a good balance of fruit and acidity. 1994 “A difficult year” - good for reds in
Saumur - some fine sweet wines made in 1993 “A good commercial
vintage”
Drinking well at the moment - fine sweet wines. 1990 “A great classic” - Lots of charm - the
reds are lasting well but are now hard to find. 1989 “One of the true vintages of the century” - Many wines have yet to reach their optimum maturity still - superb sweet wines, great red wines. Compares with 64, 59 & 47 Top= |
LOIRE SWEET
WINES
Unfortunately
we have this funny idea that a sweet wine is automatically one to drink with desserts.
Many merchants, who ought to know better, only increase the confusion by
lumping all sweet styles together under the heading 'Dessert Wines'. This is
as nonsensical as listing all dry whites as fish wines. Actually, few sweet Top= |