R S J
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R e s t a u r a n t
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RSJ Wine
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The
vineyards of the |
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MAIN GRAPE VARIETIES
Chenin
Blanc (Pineau de Loire) Indigenous
variety - range from dry through demi- sec to remarkable sweets. Great years will live for 100 years +.
Often goes through a dumb period between ages of 2 and 10 years. AOCS:
Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon, Coteaux de l'Aubance, Bonnezeaux, Quarts de
Chaume, Savennieres and Jasnieres (usually dry). Suggestions: aperitif, fish, chicken, pork, veal, fruit
desserts, blue cheese and after dinner sipping. (sweet) Muscadet
(Melon de Bourgogne) The
grape variety of Sauvignon
Blanc Fashionable
variety. Distinctive aroma - grassy,
gooseberry, cats' pee even, especially when unripe. When fully ripe tends towards grapefruit flavours and some
light exotic fruits. Names:
Menetou-Salon, Chardonnay Very
few exciting examples - not allowed for the top Appellations: Vouvray,
Savennieres etc. though often used to soften some Anjou Blancs in green
vintages, but less and less so. Cabernet
Franc Related
to Cabernet Sauvignon but ripens earlier and is lighter and more
aromatic. Makes fruity reds,
sometimes grassy - hints of lead pencil on the nose. Ages well, often developing gamey
flavours. Cabernet-Sauvignon Well
known variety, frowned on in Gamay Fruity
reds for early gulping like Anjou Gamay, Top= |
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RECENT LOIRE VINTAGES
2007 – A late
start Just
as in the UK, it has been a pretty strange year weather-wise. A mild winter
followed by an extraordinarily hot April led to an early bud-break and a very
early flowering at the end of May. At this stage it looked like the harvest
would begin in places in late August assuming the weather was good – an
incorrect assumption! The Loire had one of its worst summers for many years.
The flowering was generally difficult because it was wet and cold, taking a
long time and leading to a poor set with potentially big differences in
ripeness within the same bunch – not good news especially if you harvest by
machine. Bad weather in June, July and August made
mildew a big problem, especially for organic producers. It was not just
yellowed leaves and white mildew patches on the underside of leaves but
bunches of grapes attacked by mildew. In a few places mildew has gobbled
everything up – leaves and grapes. August was miserable. The temperature rarely
crept over the early 20sC and at times it was 16˚-17˚C with several
days of torrential rain around 20th August. It was so abnormally
cold that it was only rarely possible to have dinner outside. Usually you
expect to be able to eat outside every night in August. Fortunately as it often happens the weather
cleared up at the beginning of September and it was mostly sunny and dry with
the wind from the north/north east that dried up any incipient rot. Generally
the harvest started later than expected – early September rather than late
August. 2006 “A question of the
Vigneron”
A very
hot July and a decent August - but
rain started falling in mid September in the west of the region and by late
September in the east. Muscadet bore the brunt of the rainy conditions and
Pierre Luneau picked his grapes quickly but in good condition. Generally Sauvignon was picked before or
just as the rain started and is of very good quality. There were some good
Cabernet Francs and Chenin Blancs made but the input of the Vigneron was, as
always, all important. 2005 “A Great Vintage” The Loire was blessed
with perfect weather conditions throughout this year and unlike 2003 the
acidity levels were much better. As a result some wonderfully balanced wines
have been produced. The grapes were harvested in ideal conditions and the
vignerons have never known such an easy time. 2004 “A fine vintage” A lovely September
resulted in the grapes in most regions being ripe and well balanced with a
good acidity. It was a prolific vintage and many of the lesser producers in
the region didn’t reduce their yields, but the good vignerons produced some
consistently lovely wines with very good concentrations. 2003 “Fabulous Summer” This year will be
remembered as one of the hottest summers on record with picking starting two
to three weeks earlier than normal in most regions. Frosts in April did
however cause some damage and yields were subsequently lower. It was by
general consensus a truly outstanding year for red wines, which have a
wonderful concentration and lovely ripe fruit. White wines generally have a
lower acidity than normal but have tremendously ripe fruit and attractive
floral characteristics. 2002 “Plenty
of attractive fruit”
The exceptionally sunny September transformed what could have been a
depressing vintage into a generally very good one. After the cool July and
wet August this was a very welcome change to recent Septembers and altered
the outlook totally. The wines of 2002 have an exceptional purity of fruit -
partly due to yields being down as much as 20% - more for Sauvignon Blanc.
Good reports have come in from all the regions from Muscadet to Sancerre and
overall the vintage was a good one. 2001 “From
one extreme to another” This year turned out to be one of decidedly mixed
fortunes. Muscadet had yet another very good vintage, whilst Sancerre &
Pouilly had a rough time. The frosts in April reduced the size of the crop -
the rains of late September and early October ruined the hopes of a great
vintage, although most growers are fairly happy. The favourable weather in
late October ensured that the sweet wines of 2000 “Not
to be confused with the great vintage in Bordeaux” After a miserable July,
mildew reared its ugly head although the fine autumn made some amends. The
weather broke with disastrous results on the 16th October - with
continuous rain for weeks on end. Those that harvested earlier made fine
wines (as in Bordeaux) - Muscadet was good as were Sancerre & Pouilly.
The red wines in general have good colour but not the structure for long
maturation. Despite the downpour - there are some reasonable Chenin Blancs -
including some small quantities of sweet wines picked early December! - a
tribute to the nerve of intrepid growers. 1999 “It
came close - but it was not to be” As a vintage however, it sorted out the good
from the indifferent growers. A large harvest loomed during July - serious
producers cut off excess bunches. The idle and greedy did not. When the rains
came in September - those with over laden vines (and unripe grapes) suffered
- the prudent did not. Muscadet yet again avoided the rains and made good
wines. This is a year where the selection of producer is vital - some
- such as J P Chevallier in Saumur have made exceptional wines - many
have not! 1998 “A
commercial success - but not exceptional” Late September rains
dashed the hopes of growers for another classic. Nevertheless the best
vignerons, as usual, made fine wines - albeit lacking the structure of
previous vintages. Most of the rains occurred after the grapes had reached a
phenolic maturity ensuring the dilution was not exaggerated. In general, one
for current drinking. 1997 “A great success”- Huge, fat & rich
wines were made in Anjou & Touraine. Many with amazing alcoholic degrees
- 15% was not unusual for dry whites in Anjou - even Gamay could be found
with similar percentages. Some would argue that these wines are unbalanced -
others would demur with delight. This all stems from the balmy weather of
September and early October, which resulted in high, natural, sugar levels.
Have they got the acidity and balance to be long lived? Ask some concerned
experts. “Who cares?” say aficionados.
1996 “Overall, ‘96 is
probably superior to ’95” Especially for reds. A very dry summer produced the second
of a trio of good to excellent vintages. For anyone looking to lay down some red
wine - this is definitely the vintage to choose - many put it just below
1989. Dry whites, from Muscadet to Sancerre, are also very successful. Fine
weather in September and October allowed growers to leave their Chenin until
it was properly mature. Because of the drought, the sweet wines have less
botrytis. Nevertheless rich and concentrated wines were made. 1995 “The best vintage
since 1990”
For once, frost was not so devastating, though Muscadet, parts of Anjou and
Saumur together with Bourgueil, experienced isolated problems. A hot summer
was followed by some September rains but, except in Vouvray and Montlouis,
not enough to mar the harvest. Dry whites are successful from Muscadet to
Sancerre. The reds have concentration and charm and a long dry autumn
produced some very fine sweet wines. The wines have a good balance of fruit
and acidity. 1994 “A difficult year” - good for reds in
Saumur - some fine sweet wines made in 1993 “A good commercial
vintage”
Drinking well at the moment - fine sweet wines. 1990 “A great classic” - Lots of charm - the
reds are lasting well but are now hard to find. 1989 “One of the true vintages of the century” - Many wines have yet to reach their optimum maturity still - superb sweet wines, great red wines. Compares with 64, 59 & 47 Top= |
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LOIRE SWEET WINES
Unfortunately
we have this funny idea that a sweet wine is automatically one to drink with
desserts. Many merchants, who ought to know better, only increase the
confusion by lumping all sweet styles together under the heading 'Dessert
Wines'. This is as nonsensical as listing all dry whites as fish wines. Actually, few sweet Top= |